In the wonderful India, the tradition of decorating oneself with jewelry exists for about 5000 years already. Compared to the Indian men, it is the Indian women who have always formed a strong connection with jewelry. Through time the art of creating stunning ornaments with gracefulness and expertise has developed tremendously. In fact, even rulers and feudal offered loyal patronage to this kind of art and its artists. They even wear jewelry on several parts of their body, including nose, ears, neck, hair parting, arms, fingers, waist and ankles.

When adoring themselves, Indians ensure that the pieces of jewelry they are wearing are matched with their overall outfit. They always take into consideration the design and the color of the jewelry. Moreover, in order to make the jewelry more beautiful and striking, they integrate diamonds and different types of gems on them.

Originally, Indian jewelry was made of full and voluminous gold pieces. However, jewelry composed of platinum, silver or various types of metals are becoming popular these days. In addition, pieces of jewelry that are made up of stone and coated with metal are also earning Indians' regard recently.

Bridal Jewelry

During the wedding day of every Indian woman, she is expected to appear at her greatest. In order to attain this goal, the bride must pay extra attention to her wedding attire, hairstyle, makeup and most especially, her jewelry. By tradition, without the sixteen adornments of an Indian bride, she is believed to be incomplete and it is regarded that jewelry is a critical part of these adornments. During her big day, an Indian bride wears jewelry that covers the vital parts of her body. These pieces are intricately prepared to compliment her bridal dress. The bride's jewelry consists of these items:

Maangtika

This item is worn by the bride on her forehead. This is the reason behind every bride's centre parting hairstyle. This type of hairstyle is completed to accommodate the maangtika. The maangtika comes in various shapes and studded with numerous precious and semi-precious stones. It is typically comprised of a string with a centre piece fastened to the other end.

Necklace

The necklace is an attention getter piece of jewelry. It is worn by the bride in her neck. An important tip to bear in mind, the necklace must match her ear and nose rings and these pieces should blend well with the color and neckline of the bride's attire. A choker is regarded as the perfect item for this occasion, along with a long necklace.

Earrings

The ear rings must go well with the necklace and nose rings. Generally, ear rings have wide varieties. For a wedding occasion, you can opt for short loops or substantial earrings, small studs to antique ones, but this will largely depend on the wedding attire's color and design.

Nose Ring

Another important jewelry to be worn by the bride is the nose ring. Also, when choosing a nose ring, the color and design must match with the earrings. The ‘Nath' is a traditional nose item, which is worn by the bride during her big day. This piece entails a studded nose ring together with a long chain that is hooked in her hair. In the event that the bride has no nose piercing, she can still temporarily wear nose studs for the ceremony.

Bangles

Bangles are the symbol of the matrimonial rituals. The bride wears both gold and glass bangles. The glass bangles are mostly match with the color of the wedding dress. However, the gold bangles are the ones gifted by the mother in law.

Arm Bands

Wearing arm bands or armlets helps in enhancing the splendor and beauty of the bride, lifting her elegance and style. It is considered as a traditional and magnificent jewelry that is fast becoming a fashion statement. For a more sophisticated look, they are worn on only one arm.

Rings

Rings are also important to the physical look of the bride. The bride usually wears a Hath phoolhar in her hands. This comprises of five rings for all five fingers, it is connected to central piece, further linked to a bracelet, which is worn on the hand.

Waist Band

The waist bands are worn over a saree or a lahenga. This is a traditional looking and heavy jewelry piece. Waist bands act as a support so that the wedding dress will be kept in place. A creative and artistic waist band can really help add splendor and beauty on a wedding ensemble.

Anklets and Toe Rings

The bride can also be seen wearing anklets and toe tings in her feet. These jewelries are made of silver because gold in not worn in the feet. They are available in elaborate designs, adorned with Meenakari, Kundan and beads.

 

Antique Jewelry

Pieces of Antique Jewelry are those that in not in the conventional production and which the method of production is no longer prevalent. This type of jewelry has a rough and dull look that is shared with an old world-world charm and these qualities function as the major USP of such jewelry. It helps in taking you back to a certain era feel, by its dull and rough look. The jewelry pieces that are antique typically belong to a specific period of history, when its popularity is at its highest.

Whenever you are in India, you can discover jewelry in various forms, like the Meenakari, Kundan and so on. Antique jewelries that are exceedingly uncommon are sold at auctions, in antique shops and novelty shops. It is the uncommonness of the antique jewelry that makes it so alluring. Yet, at times, jewelries that are created in an antique pattern and style are also named antique jewelry.

Still, those who truly know the worth of uncommonness and uniqueness of an antique jewelry will always go for the original pieces. Antique jewelries exemplify the untainted jewelry tradition of the country, during the earlier times, focusing on ethnic styles and stones, metal and design. Antique jewelries in India are not just popular in the country but are also widely held in places like the UK, USA and other western countries.

Bead Jewelry

India is one of the leading producers of glass beads in the world. In fact, the produced beads In Banaras are exported in massive quantities.

The bead art in India exists for five thousand years already and was founded during the Indus Valley Civilization. During the Indus Valley Civilization, Indians make beads out of clay, wood, ivory, copper, silver and gold. Since the ancient times, Indian craftsmen are well-known for making silver beads. It is the Karnal City, which is famous for creating silver hollow beads.

During the Mughal era as well, the bead jewelry was in trend. Beads were used for making necklaces in various shapes and sizes. Soon after the Europeans arrived in India, they searched for more refine bead work; this enabled the artisans to improve their artwork to the best possible level. So, the scope of bead jewelry making widened.

The most intricate and time consuming part of the bead jewelry making is the creation of the bead itself. From the chiseling to achieve the preferred shape and size to the creation of a hole so that the string could pass through it. The whole procedure truly entails a rigid patience.

Presently, the urban women in India consider glass beads as part of their jewelry items. Beads made of semi-precious stones are also making its way to popularity in the country. Aside from making it into jewelry, beads are also utilized for embroidery works.

 

Custom Jewelry

Custom jewelry is customized jewelry. Through personalized jewelry, an individual is able to acquire jewelry that is made out of her desire and interest. This takes place especially in circumstances where ready-made jewelry doesn't fit someone's preference. Custom jewelry provides complete freedom to any client about the details. A client can request personal touches of the jewelry, which are according to her thoughts. It offers enough space for each individual taste and personal preference, which isn't possible in the situation of ready-made jewelry.

Custom created jewelry is fairly famous among village individuals since they have their old pieces of jewelry melt down to create a new one, according to their personal taste in pattern and design. Custom jewelry or customized jewelry is most sought during special occasions like wedding and etc. Similar with ready-made jewelry, the customized jewelry has numerous choices as well, including diamond jewelry, gemstone jewelry, terra cotta jewelry, lacquer jewelry, Kundan jewelry, pearl jewelry, bead jewelry, silver jewelry, gold jewelry and so much more.

The fame of custom jewelry is escalating due to the fact that the jewelry is particularly crafted to suit the client's preference, wants and needs.  

Copper Jewelry

The creation of copper jewelry is one of India's most conventional art forms. If you are purchasing copper jewelry, you're actually contributing to its continuance.

These pieces are handcrafted through polishing and heat-treating the metals to obtain the earthy colors. We strongly advise that in order to make copper jewelry last forever, polish it regularly with a soft cloth and handle it with care.

Copper was a significant element of the Bronze Age. Copper alloyed with Tin creates Bronze. Meanwhile, Copper alloyed with Zinc is Brass.

The American Indians of Michigan & Keweenaw Peninsula were the ones responsible for the discovery of a number of very rich copper mines on Earth and are well-known for manufacturing copper into tools and jewelry.

It is extremely believed that Copper is helpful to individuals who are suffering from arthritis. It is regarded as conductor of healing energies, soother and pain-reliever.

For a thousand of years, Copper has been linked to the planet Venus. Because Libra (the Balancer) is controlled by Venus, Copper is believed to produce a stabilizing and balancing effect anywhere it is placed. Also, Venus is the Goddess of Love, so Copper is considered to be a great love charm.

Fashion Jewelry

Fashion jewelry is also identified as costume jewelry, primarily because it is not created out of precious stones and metals but with inexpensive and lighter materials. Fashion jewelry keeps on developing and changing due to the varying needs of its clients. For those individuals who are fond of experimenting with brand new and unique designs, colors and shapes, costume jewelry presents a wide array of choices. Instead of utilizing precious elements such as platinum, silver, white gold and gold, fashion jewelry employ inexpensive products like paper mache, jute, osseus, leather, wood, horn, terra cotta, lac, jewel, oxidized steel, bakelite plastic and many more.

Fashion jewelry is nearly akin to a replica of real jewelry and is a more inexpensive duplication of the latter. It is very accessible anywhere. Instead of placing precious stones, jewelers use artificial stones instead, like rhinestones and cubic Zirconia. Such fashion jewelry looks really attractive and is presented in numerous colors. Plus, this cheap jewelry is widely accessible.

In India, fashion jewelry is incredibly much widespread, particularly among teens.

Filigree Jewelry

 

Filigree works are mostly in silver and includes a lot of precision and technicality; it also requires a lot of patience and an eye for minuscule details. Traditionally, filigree works were fairly known in countries such as Italy, Egypt and Spain. India's known filigree works dates back to early centuries. Filigree works in India is very distinct when it comes to aesthetics. Indian filigree works were inspired from old Greek filigree works, the matching charm and style has been kept till this very present by Indian artisans. Filigree works are chiefly prevalent in Andhra Pradesh and Orissa.

 

As the process goes, firstly pure silver is created in finely thin wires, by going it through a wire drawing machine or by process of hammering. After which, the two thinnest wires are heated and looped around a wheel machine that's rotating known as "Charkha". Then these wires are flattened again, to create it as a single piece of wire. This wire is then twisted in different ways, to create diverse shapes and forms. Filigree is also utilized in the creation of different decorative materials such as bowls, boxes, vases with flowers, spoons, trays, purses, plates, tumblers, showpieces and etc.

 

Filigree works varies according to places. In Orissa, these works are known as ‘Tarkashi' which specializes in jewelry, ‘Karim Nagar' known for its intricate designs and sophisticated approach and precision. In Orissa, animal figures such as birds and flowers and Konark Chakra are the preferred mementos that are portrayed in jewelry. An array of products, such as pendants, ladies bags, earrings, brooches, hairpins and utility items the likes of cups, plates, trays, candle stand bowls, incense containers are also decorated with filigree works.

 

Handmade Jewelry

 

When it comes to jewelry manufacturing India, then it will also pertain to handmade jewelries made in India. The majority of the jewelries made in India came from independent artisans. Conventionally, a substantial part of jewelry manufacturing is handmade jewelries. Large and feudal families are used in having personal jewelers, who would supply their demand. These craftsmen are expected to create ornaments, making sure that the individual desires and needs of the customers are attained.

 

Although the old designs are slowly disappearing and a group of new jewelers has come up, the olden and traditional patterns are still being followed in some rural areas. Special occasions such as weddings, jewelry is sometimes specifically designed to perfectly match with the wedding outfit. The main USP of handmade jewelry is that they are truly aesthetic and embrace a lot of appeal. The mastery of a craftsman will show through the jewelry, in the forms of myriad designs, which is considered most admirable.

 

Handmade jewelries are a collaborative process, where craftsman and customer will sit down and discuss and agree on a design and pattern that will be followed. This also involves a countless deal of planning, re-planning, deciding on a final design, metal and stones to be used and other intricacies. Even during the time of making of these rich handmade ornaments, recurrent meetings and consultations are made to make sure that changes required will be integrated in the ornament.

 

Kundan Jewelry

 

During the Mughal period, the art of Kundan touched Rajasthan from Delhi. Afterwards, artisan from diverse part of the country transferred to the place and has made Rajasthan a center of Kundankari. Rulers and feudal lords gave their support to the art and later on it settled to perfection. Presently, Kundakari is recognized worldwide, with Rajasthan serving as its center. Kundankari work is mostly done on silver and gold jewelry. The splendor of Kundan work is seen in the exact setting of stones into Kundan and the total appearance of the ornament.

 

Traditional Kundan jewelry has encrusted stones on one side and an intricate and colorful Meenakari on the other side. The whole method of Kundankari lies in the skilled setting of gems and stones in gold, this is seldom solid. There are holes for the gems, engraving is done and the different pieces are enameled. The center of the ornament is made of lac, which is a natural resin. Then, lac is placed into the hollow part and with this it becomes visible in the front. Extremely refined gold or known as Kundan is utilized to cover the lac and gems are afterwards pushed in the Kundan.

 

To further strengthen the joints and give it a smooth finish, additional Kundan is applied. Kundankari is considered as a specialized art that is done by a group of craftsmen, each of which carries out a certain job. The chiterias create the basic design, the ghaarias are tasked with making and engraving the holes, Meenakari or enameling is assigned to the enamellers and the goldsmith is responsible for the gold or Kundan. The stone setters or jadiyas, are the ones to set the stones such as jade, agate, emerald, garnet, rock crystal, amethyst, topaz and spinel into the Kundan.

 

Tribal Jewelry

 

In India, Tribal jewelry is very rich. Each of the tribes has retained unique and distinctive style of jewelry intact even at this time. The original layout of jewelry design has been conserved by ethnic tribes. Jewelries that are made of wood, clay, bones, shells and other crude metals are not only beautiful but it also holds a unique rustic and earthy appeal. Tribal jewelries are created from products that are readily available locally. The different and unrefined look of the jewelry is the reason why people are attracted to them. As has been told, individual tribes have their own original jewelry craft, the following are the list of tribes with their unique jewelry art defined briefly:

 

Banjara

 

The tribe of Rajasthan is famous for their heavy and colorful jewelries. Attractive ornaments and belts that are embroidered with metal-mesh, shells, beads, coins and chains are their major jewelry art work. The tribe offers a huge collection of bracelets, bangles, earrings, amulets, anklets, hairpins and necklaces.

 

Arunachal Pradesh

 

The tribes of Arunachal create jewelries from bamboo and cane. They also decorate metal coin necklaces and waistbands of leather, studded with stones. They utilize brass, ivory, bones, silver and gold in their jewelries. Additionally, colorful beads, blue feathers, green wings of beetles are used in making ornaments. Karka Gallong women in their tribe adorn themselves with heavy iron rings that are looped several times, while Wanchos create earrings from glass beads, wild seeds, cane, bamboo and reeds.

 

Khasi, Jaintia and Garo

 

The tribesmen of Khasi, Jaintia and Garo have a distinctive sense when it comes to jewelry art. The Khasis and Jaintias make necklaces from thick red coral beads while the Garo use thin fluted stems of glass, strung with fine thread.

 

Bhutia

 

The Bhutiatribe are also famous for creating attractive jewelries. They are fond of using gold, silver, coral, turquoise and zee stones in the making of their jewelries.

 

Bastar

 

The people of Bastar (Madhya Pradesh) create jewelries from grass, beads and cane. They also stick to traditional ornaments that are made from silver, glass, wood, peacock feathers, copper and wild flowers. The Bastar women are also fond of making necklaces that are made from one-rupee coins.

 

Temple Jewelry

 

The art of jewelry in India is separated into three types – bridal jewelry, spiritual jewelry and temple jewelry. The art of temple jewelry is was formerly described as jewelries used to decorate the idols of Gods and Goddesses. These statues were adorned with hefty necklaces that were either fashioned with intricate filigree or strung with beads. Other adornments that were placed in these statues were large bangles that are typically studded with gems. Other ornaments were also decorated such as nose rings, earrings and anklets.

 

The jewelries that were used to decorate the idols were later worn by temple performers and have been slowly becoming a part of the Indian woman's bridal jewelry. Even though the idols of their Gods and Goddesses are still adorned with jewelries, a practice that is still present today, and pieces of jewelry worn by Indian women are made in the same pattern. Presently, temple jewelry has become a prevalent craft in India. In times of festivals and occasions that show worshipping their Gods, temple jewelries are worn by women which they believe to offer fortune and good luck.

 

Jewelry pieces like bracelets, pendants, belts and brooches which are based on temple jewelries are ideally used by Indian women during fortunate times, and the wearing of these pieces was believed to bring fortune to the person. The preferred design when it comes to pendants is the Ganesha – the elephant headed deity famous for granting good fortune and good luck. Another emblem which is also very famous, is the emblem of the sacred syllable OM. Today, the art of temple jewelry in India is also gaining favor amongst foreigner.

 

Stone Jewelry

 

Jewelries that are studded with diverse types of gems are quite famous among the Indians. Reasons that range from aesthetic to health to spiritual, the art of gemstone jewelry has integrated in the life of Indian men and women. Indians wore these stone jewelries basing on their particular astrological chart and ruler of the planet. A good example is Navaratna which is a blend of nine gems, to create a necklace that forms a very vital part in the life and fashion among Indian women. Their belief is that these stones have healing powers. Each individual gem in the mala is said to contain definite attributes of healing properties. Some of these stone jewelries are believed to give protection against poisonous substances and expels any evil spirits that's lingering around. The commercial significance of the gems has been growing recently, for reasons such as the traditional role is held in the very life of the Indian people and their growing consciousness. It is believed that every gem except for the emerald are all mined in India. India has established a technology in gem preparation as early as during the Christian era.

 

Diamond as we all know is considered as the greatest gem. There are at least six colors of this gem and has certain equivalents for six deities. Basing on common belief, the green color is associated with Vishnu (the Preserver), the white with Varuna (God of Oceans), yellow is to Indra (God of the Heavens), brown with Agni (Fire God), blue is to Yama (God of Death) and the copper color is with Maruts (Storm God). Besides the association with different dieties, a flawless diamond is deliberated as the abode of dieties. A faultless diamond is considered to be the one that could drift in water and has six elevated tips, eight equal sides and twelve sharp edges.

 

Ivory Jewelry

 

Ivory jewelry is basically jewelry that is made out from the tusk of an elephant. The significance of ivory jewelry can be assumed from the very fact that weddings in Gujarat, the bride will receive an ivory bangle from her family just before the marriage will begin. It is known that during wedding ceremonies, the wearing of ivory bangles is a must for selected regions of the country. Aside from bangles, pendants made of ivory that is attached to a necklace or earring is quite famous in India.

 

Ivory, which has a soft consistency, can be molded into preferred designs and patterns. Its USP is that is white in color and is light weight which in turn attracts a lot of people. Ivory is smooth and any chosen texture can be shown easily. It is for the mentioned qualities of the ivory that makes it famous among the customers and jewelry makers. Ivory jewelries aren't only popular among Indians but around the world. Basing on history, ivory was used as jewelry long before gold or any other known metal. During early times, ivory was bleached and painted and was well thought as a great material for carving.

 

As time passes, ivory is considered in the making of jewelries. Though regarded as a traditional ornament, of late, ivory has been perceived in different campuses in India. Individuals looking for cool ornaments go for ivory jewelry in general and ivory pendants to be particular. In fact, you will notice a lot of Indian college students wearing ivory jewelries. One major reason why ivory jewelry has become popular because of its availability in diverse styles and it is within the budget of many college students.

 

Silver Jewelry

 

Aside from gold jewelry, silver jewelry is also famous among Indian women. Adornments made out from silver, such as earrings, bracelets, toe tings, chains, necklaces, rings, heavy kadas and armlets, from a vital part in Indian jewelry. Comparing to gold jewelry which is very famous among women in India for a long time, silver jewelry isn't far behind when it comes to popularity. Not only is it popular in the cities, silver jewelry has a foothold in rural and tribal areas around the country. In fact, jewelries made from silver are a very important part in the adoration and dress of many tribal people.

 

Indian women in rural and tribal areas wore heavy jewelries made of silver for adornment. Wearing these heavy jewelries simply meant financial security apart from being a source of decoration. The art of creating new jewelries thru melting old silver jewelries is still present in practice among the major areas of India; however there are new trends that have been seen in reversal market. Old pieces of jewelry made of silver are becoming a demand and are in fashion presently. Silver jewelries that are oxidized with their traditional patterns, which give them an old and vintage look is becoming prevalent these days.

 

Silver jewelry decorated with gold, precious and semi-precious stones are quite famous, especially in the southern part of India. The USP of these adornments is that they are light in weight and is quite cheap. The flexibility can be witnessed in silver jewelry, as the different city states have local influence over its designs. The design and precision vary according to each region and the likes-dislikes of its people. A lot of times, one can measure the marital status of a woman as her community by the jewelries she wears.

 

Silver pieces of jewelry created from Kolhapur (Maharashtra), Hathras (UP), Salem (Tamil Nadu), and Rajkot (Gujarat) have traditional patterns and is light in weight.

 

Gold Jewelry

 

Gold is a known metal that appeals to everybody. It can give a sense of security to any financial uproar, because of its liquidity; gold is also used by women for beautifying themselves. By tradition, gold among Hindus is considered auspicious and is also held as a representation of Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth. Gold symbolizes perfection, prosperity and immortality; gold is the substance that myths and legends are made of. It is favored when it comes to creating jewelry because it is anti-rust and has an endless shine.

 

Place like Kancheepuram in southern India and Varanasi in Northern India are considered as the center when it comes to making gold jewelries since the historic times. Gold is also known to be used in the making of brocades and weaving. Zardozi, which the Mughals brought to India, used gold threads in their embroidery. Zardozi which is an excellent craft is quite famous even to this day. Basing on areas and tradition, they have their own design and pattern when it comes to making gold jewelry.

 

Until today, there are no known historical evidences that show Indian women didn't wear gold jewelry anytime. Historically, bangles, nose rings, bracelets, earrings, etc., have been part of the women of India. Indian gold jewelry got its international influence during the Mughal period. It is the Mughals that stirred Indian craftsmen to learn the workings and touches of jewelry making. It is also during these times that enameling, setting stones in gold and filigree works attained heightened popularity.

 

The gold jewelry of the hands and feet during the Mughal period was very rich. The reason was that Indian women wore veils and are covered with only their hands and feet being exposed. Various major gold jewelries in India comprise of nose rings, necklaces, hair clips, waistbands, toe rings, etc., which are all prevalent among Indian women. Aside from the fact that gold lures Indian women, gold is also believed to welcome the Goddess of Wealth, Lakshmi.  During the festival of Diwali where the Goddess Lakshmi is worshipped, gold is consistently bought.

 

Jadau Jewelry

 

One example of a highly skilled craftsmanship that was brought to India by the Mughals is Jadau Jewelry. Historically, Jadau work has been in traditionally practiced in the city states of Gujarat and Rajasthan since the era of the Mughal.  Jadau jewelry, also known as engraved jewelry is quite on of its kind. Known as a traditional jewelry making art in India, it is present in a lot of traditional occasions and gatherings such as marriages and festivals.

 

Although the work of art was introduced by the Mughals in India, Indian artisans made it famous among the population by adding in their native skills. In Jadau jewelry making, gold is fist melted a bit and then precious to semi-precious stones, gems, crystals and beads are used to embed in the gold.

 

After the gold becomes malleable, the stones or gems are then placed with great precision and ability. After which the gold is allowed to cool down, setting the gems and stones are placed without the use of any type of adhesive.

 

Jadau work requires team work, where a number of craftsmen are involved in the work process. Craftsmen work at a specific job associated the jewelry making. The chiterias are responsible for making the basic designs, ghaarias are the ones working on the engraving and hole making, Meenakari or enameling is done by an enameller and the goldsmith is responsible for the gold or Kundan. Today, Jadau is not limited to jewelry only but in the creation of jewelry boxes and subtle showpieces.

 

Uncut diamonds known as polka or vilandi are utilized as the central stone. Utmost care and attention is given to the details on every piece that is created by the master craftsman. The stones setters firstly place the stones in a silver foil and after which fusing it with a finishing of pure gold.

 

Lac Jewelry

 

What has gained popularity in the world of jewelry industry in India today is Lac Jewelry which originated in Rajasthan. Lac jewelry has versatility when it comes to design, which further add to its splendor. Among the wide array in Lac jewelry, the bangles will draw attention. Bangles created from Lac are brightly colored and the glass work on them makes them more beautiful. According to the Rajasthani people, wearing bangles made of Lac will bring good omen. They are famous in Rajasthan and of late is also being made all over the country.

 

The noticeable craft that is present in Rajasthan was originally established by the tribal people of the state. What once was just a simple craft by a tribal person, lacquer jewelry is now becoming popular in urban India. Accessories that are made of lac are attracting people for its apparent reasons. Lac jewelry accessories such as Bala, Rakhi, Jod, Bajuband, Gokhru, Gajra, Timaniyan are very prevalent. A great number of lac jewelry is being sold outside the country, which helps provide jobs for people and motivates craftsmen in improvisation in their designs and pattern in the art of jewelry making.

 

The manner of how lac jewelry is created is quite difficult. Items like flower shaped mirrors, glass beads and decorative wires are used for enhancing the beauty of lac jewelry. The bangles that are made of lac jewelry comprises of an inner core that is covered by a thin layer of superior quality lac. The core lac, when incorporated with white clay material, helps strengthens the bangle. The process of heating, kneading and hammering of the parched materials is repeatedly and as a result a dough like mass is created.

 

After heating the mass, it is molded and shaped and expanding the lac takes place in line with the bargained diameter. This process results in the thickening of the bangle. Moreover, a flat-shaped tool is used to roll the bangle material on a flat surface, which helps in giving its right thickness. Shaping is done thru suppressing the whole length of the lac into grooves (colored) on every side of the mold. The lac will then be molded into the shape that it is forced into. A process requires a lot of work and precision.

 

Meenakari Jewelry

 

Meenakari jewelries are made by setting precious stones and then having them enameled with gold. According to history, the art of making the Meenakari jewelry was introduced by Raja Mansingh of Amer to Rajasthan. He brought Lahore-based skilled craftsmen to his kingdom, and mixing with the local craftsmen resulted in a fusion, which in now known as Meenakari. Creating Meenakari also requires teamwork, where the specialization of a specific skill is very vital.  As it is done on the opposite side of Kundan jewelry, Meenakari has to work hand in hand with the goldsmith, ghaaria or engraver, chitteria or designer and also with jadiya.

 

The art of making Meenakari jewelry requires a high skill set and its complexity will need application of technical mindset.in Meenakari, the metal piece on which the work is done is secured on a lac stick, and the diverse designs of flowers, birds, fish, etc. are patterned on it. Walls or grooves are also created to hold the colors. Enamel dust is later then poured in the walls/grooves and each color is heated individually. The heated color becomes liquid and is easily spread into the grooves. This procedure is repeated with every color.

 

Consequently, every color is individually heated. Colors that are more heat resistant are the ones applied first as they are then re-fired with every additional color. After the last color is heated, the material is then cooled down and polished with an agate. The depth of each groove will define the play of the light. Gold and silver are usually used as the base of Meenakari. Certain colors such as green, yellow or blue are chosen as they complement with silver. As for gold, every color can be used, and this is the main reason why gold is the preferred metal for Meenakari jewelry.

 

Pachchikam Jewelry

 

In the fashion world, old designs and trends tend to return from time to time though with changes. Pachchikam Jewelry making is an example of jewelry art that has come back. Pachchikam jewelry making originated in Gujarat and Kutch centuries ago and is now gaining popularity. A lot of known contemporary designers are motivated by the art of Pachchikam jewelry and they are initiating further growth of the art.

 

Comparing pachchikam to Kundan, it has a more crude appearance and is fragile. Major USP of Pachchikam jewelry is that is uses silver instead of gold thus making it more affordable. One major reason why the art uses silver instead of gold as its base metal is that silver is very malleable and it looks like platinum, a known precious metal. Pachchikam jewelry is quite showy and people can wear them on formal occasions. The manner of creating Pachchikam jewelry is also complex.

 

First, the stone is placed in a silver casing, and then the edge is pressed onto the stone sing the fingers and the grooves are then filed on it. Taking a closer look on the setting will show how the process is crude in execution, but it is in this manner that it makes it beautiful, making beauty aficionados appreciate it. The work itself involves a laborious procedure, which consumes a lot of time. Glass work and uncut semi-precious stones are vital in making Pachchikam jewelry.

 

The art of making Pachchikam jewelry is kept within the families in Kutch and Gujarat, where it is handed down from generation to generation. The artisans are very conservative and are not easily willing to make a change basing on the needs and demands of time. These craftsmen are not open to any change in the when it comes to techniques and they don't experiment with new trends and patterns. Having this reverting attitude is somewhat harming the overall progress of the pachchikam Jewelry industry.