- 1). Assess your yard. Compost can be made in a loose pile, but this may be unattractive in a small, city lot with nearby neighbors, so you'll want a bin to contain your compost. Properly maintained compost should not smell bad or attract pests, and you will want to position the compost bin close to the house so that it is accessible when you are taking out kitchen waste. Compost bins work best when they are in full sun, but part sun or even full shade will work fine, too. The site of a compost bin should allow for good drainage.
- 2). Choose your bin. Traditional square bins are easy to use and designed to be semi-permanent and sit in place during the composting process, making them a good choice for homeowners. There are many styles available at garden centers and home improvement stores, or you can also build your own compost bin from scrap wood and chicken wire. Simply build five frames 3 feet by 3 feet in size, and cut a piece of chicken wire to fit each frame. Attach the chicken wire with a staple gun. Nail four frames together to create a box, then attach the fifth one on top with hinges for a lid (leave the bottom open). You may also want to add two hook-and-eye closures on top to keep out raccoons, skunks and rodents.
- 3). If you are renting, and your landlord won't allow a semi-permanent compost bin, consider a barrel or tumbler style composter. These are entirely self-contained, and can be moved as needed, although composting may require more turning and monitoring of moisture levels. You can purchase a barrel or tumbler composter, or make your own by several drilling holes (for ventilation) in an old garbage can.
- 4). If you have no yard at all, consider vermicomposting. A vermicomposting bin (also called a "worm bin") can be kept indoors, and with proper care should not smell or attract fruit flies. Worm bins require more work than outdoor compost bins, since you must monitor the moisture and temperature levels very closely to keep the worms healthy, and you must purchase special red worms (earthworms dug up from outside won't work as well). For more information on vermicomposting, see the book "Worms Eat My Garbage" by Mary Appelhof.
- 5). Begin composting. For outdoor compost bins, you will need a mixture of "browns" (such as dried leaves, twigs or shredded newspaper) and "greens" (such as food waste or lawn clippings), and it is best to cover every layer of greens with a layer of browns to reduce odor and to speed the compost process. Keep your compost evenly moist, but not waterlogged; a good rule of thumb is to keep it was wet as a wrung out sponge. Turn your compost with a garden fork once a week to aerate it. You should have finished compost in 3 to 6 months.
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