- Any debris and stains left on the old surface can weaken the bond with the new material. If the cement patio is only a few years old, you should be able to clean it well with a scrub brush and mild laundry detergent. Older cement surfaces typically have dirt embedded into hairline cracks and may require a power washer. Once the surface is scrubbed, use a wire brush to clean out the crevices and rough up the surface. Scratching the cement will help the resurfacing material adhere to it.
- Cracks and pits should be patched before you apply resurfacing material to a cement patio. If left unfilled, the flaws will quickly reappear through the resurfaced patio. Any cracks deeper than ½ inch should be filled with fine sand until it is ½ inch from the surface. Patch the cracks with epoxy filler and spread it thinly around the surrounding area to blend it with the existing surface, a process known as "feathering." If you notice any large, deep cracks that run the length of the patio, call a professional as this could signal a more severe problem with the foundation.
- Resurfacing material is denser than the cement poured to form a patio. With less water content, the material is much thicker so you only need to pour enough to cover the entire surface with an even layer. Though you can pour it directly over the existing patio, spreading an epoxy bonding compound over the patio first will strengthen the bond between the old and new cement. Choose a resurfacing material with a color stain or press stamps over the surface within 15 minutes of spreading the material to give the patio color or texture.
- Once the resurfacing material dries, add a coat of sealant to increase the strength of the new surface. Penetrating sealant fills the porous material, protecting it from water damage and making the surface easier to clean. You can reapply sealant every other year to maximize the longevity and strength of the surface.
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